The Perfect Feed Combination

Did you know that Alfalfa is an all encompassing food? If a horse had only alfalfa and water, it would be just fine. However, there are drawbacks. If you fed only alfalfa, a horse would eat himself until he weighted 1,500 pounds and was severely obese. You might hear skeptics say that alfalfa causes stones and you should not feed it, but, the people who say that typically are not getting their hay from New Mexico, Colorado, Texas area where alfalfa is very nutrient rich. If you go to New Mexico, many horses only get alfalfa because that is what grows there. A friend of mine who runs the horseback division of Customs and Border Patrol area in New Mexico only feeds her horses, and the Border Patrol horses alfalfa. The horses have never had issues with stones. East and West coast people expect crappy alfalfa, where as the mid-west has great alfalfa options. 

Did you know that Equine Senior was a revolutionary advance in horse feed because it too can be the only thing that a horse eats, and the horse can live to have a long healthy, fruitful life? A horse can live solely off of Equine Senior and water and live to be 35. I asked about switching my horses to Senior since they need to gain weight, but my vet explained that many horses don't like the taste of it, and you can find a lower priced mid-range feed that will do the same thing. According to my vet, adding one cup of canola oil to each feeding will help them put on the weight I am hoping to add, and I might not have to go all the way up to 1% of their desired body weight. Speaking of this, everything I read on the internet talks about feeding a percentage of your horses body weight. My vet clarified that it is a percentage of the horses DESIRED or IDEAL body weight, not their actual weight.

The reason I am writing about feed is because I recently had a horse colic from a dorsal torsion (twisted gut), and anybody that has dealt with a colic knows that the first thing an owner does after a scare like that is reassess their feeding regime. During my research, I found a great online feed calculator, but I decided that I needed my vets input on my specific situation of my three rescues.

Case Studies: 

1. Gypsy - an 8 year old QH mare, she is 14.1, used for Rodeo Drill Team twice a week and long trail rides between 6 and 15 miles about once or twice a month. Moderate workload. She weighs about 950 pounds. She needs to lose a few pounds
2. Titan - a 12 year Appendix gelding, he is 16.3, and is in training, used for trail rides mostly at a walk and trot pace, training to be a rodeo drill horse. Light to moderate workload. Recently colicked, dorsal torsion, was very dehydrated, weighs about 1,050 pounds, should weight closer to 1,200 to 1,300 pounds
3. Sampson "Our First Affair"- a 9 year old OTTB gelding, used for light trail riding and jumping. Endurance prospect. Light workload, weighs about 900 pounds, but should weight 1,200 to 1,250. 

With these horses, there are several options, it truly depends on what is financially feasible in your area, but here are some options:  

Currently they all have access to unlimited coastal hay on a round bale. So some options would be:

- put 2 and 3 on unlimited alfalfa/coastal and water

- feed 2 and 3 five pounds of pelleted feed 2 times a day, add a cup of canola oil to each feeding, add alfalfa twice a day. 

- Combine lots of alfalfa, and less pellets with unlimited coastal to find a happy medium. 

- horse 1 should only get 2% of her ideal weight in coastal (~18 pounds), with just a handful of grain to keep her mentally happy and not too jealous of the others. She also will get alfalfa on rodeo days as a treat for the trailer ride. 

Horse Behavior - Catching a Horse and Spray Bottles

Background

Recently, a good friend rescued a horse, Dodger, from a kill pen up in Pennsylvania, she lives in Maryland and had the horse shipped down to her. She planned to board the horse at a local prestigious hunter/jumper barn where she was taking lessons. This is her first horse, so as you can imagine, the process was not nearly as smooth as she expected. Upon arrival, they quarantined the horse, which had a fever, lots of scrapes and was diagnosed as having pneumonia and low pasterns. The vet who examined the horse didn't even take the blanket off or touch the horse for fear he had strangles (which was extremely likely). Anyways, $200 later and some antibiotics, the vet tells her that the horse can't stay at that facility and needs to be moved to a more appropriate place. The horse ended up at a rescue, where they had a great setup for quarantine, but it was with several horses, which of course, all had their own ailments. HIs fever was still high upon arrival, so the rescue lady, Sharon, administered banamine. (Note: if a horse is suspected of having strangles, banamine is not a suitable treatment, as it can cause strangles to travel through the body and potentially kill the horse. Bute will alleviate the fever, no other medication should be given, and a vet is only required if the horse stops eating or drinking, likely because its passages feel blocked. At this point a vet will need to drain the abscess. This is information from my experience and from my veterinarian.)

Within a couple of days, Dodger had his horseshoes removed and initial teeth floating. He has very angled teeth as if he were only chewing in one direction using the circular motion that horses use, so his teeth wore to one side. Two days later, Dodger showed severe lameness in his front foot. Again, she called the vet, who determined that his hoof was likely trimmed too short and he probably had an abscess. Another couple hundred spent. I arrived in Maryland from Texas, and wanted to meet Dodger. My friend had mentioned a few behavior issues and of course medical concerns and I was hoping to help her address them and show her a few things that might help save her some cash on vet bills in the future.

Behavior

Catching a Horse

Upon arriving at the horses field, she warned me that although he has a halter on, he will not let us catch him. I pulled the old "I'm not paying attention to you, I want THAT horse over there" trick. This is where you walk out near the horse, don't look at him at all, and look in another direction, preferably toward another horse. When you sense that the horse is not feeling threatened, you might take a step closer to him, again, without looking at him. This takes time and patience. It took me about 3 minutes to catch him. Of course using grain is much easier and faster, but I think it is important that all new horse owners understand some horse psychology. You do this until the horse becomes curious. Perhaps put your hand out like you don't care what he is doing, because you are focusing on something completely different, another horse, a tree, anything but the horse. The horse will probably sniff your hand, and start looking for attention or affection. Perhaps pet him on the head, then catch him, but always let him come to you. Chasing a horse can be a daunting task

Spray Bottles

Another concern that my friend had was his cuts and scrapes. So she concocted a mix and put it in a spray bottle. She went to spray the horse and he took off. So I wanted to address the issue while I was here. It was as simple as being assertive, starting at the legs with a soft quiet spray and let the sound get louder and louder. Most people don't realize that it is the sound that concerns the horse, not the surprise of liquid landing on its body This is the complete opposite of a dog. So I sprayed his legs, moved on to his body and as soon as he showed signs of nervousness after 10 or so sprays, I stopped. I turn around and don't look at him. I wait for him to lick his lips, or blow, or chew. These are all signs that he has absorbed what you were doing, and has collected himself. He is now ready for round two. Continue doing this until he is letting you spray his entire body at a loud spray. Move towards his head once he is comfortable, but remember, no horse likes to be sprayed in the face, just like you wouldn't like that. So ALL horses will react to a face shot.

All training should happen like this, in small doses and with lots of breaks and chances for the horse to recoup. This will make him trust you and build his confidence, in addition to the learning of whatever activity it is that you are teaching him. Take your time when building a relationship and working with a horse.

Creating a Supple and Willing horse with Forward Lateral Flexion

The following exercises are based on the below diagram for hand and leg position:

For a forward lateral flexion (asking the horse to bend his head to the left while moving in a straight line forward) to the left the left hand should bend the head to the side and then lift towards #0. By lifting toward 0, you are asking the horse to lift his shoulder, which will keep him moving forward instead of turning left. 

For a forward lateral flexion to the left the left leg should move to position #1 and hold the horses shoulder straight, so he does not turn to the left. This will apply pressure right behind his leg keeping him going in a straight line.

For a forward lateral flexion to the left the right hand should move to position #3 and use just a little pressure to get the horse to tuck his nose to keep him collected.

For a forward lateral flexion to the left the right leg should be about position R2 and help to urge the horse forward

For a forward lateral flexion to the left the body should be straight ahead because that is the direction you want the horse to go

Resistance Free Riding- Asking for a Simple Collected Circle

Using this Diagram as your guide:

To ask for a circle to the left in-frame and collected:
-  The left hand should for a left hand circle lift and move to position #2 and then move to #0, to tilt the nose in and to lift the rib. 
- The left leg should lay it against the horse softly in position # L2 to move the rib over 
- The body should turn to the right at the hips
- The right leg should move to position #R2 urge the horse forward and should lay against the horse to push the horse around in the circle.
- The right hand should stay in a neutral position and apply a little pressure to keep the shoulder from moving out and to tuck the nose for collection. 

Remember that the horse reacts to your movements. When you drop your inside hand it will:

1. Drop your inside shoulder and lock up your horse's shoulder.

2. Pushes your horse's hip to the outside.

3. your inside leg pushes your horse out of the circle.

When you lift your inside hand, it will:

1. it moves your weight to the outside seat bone.

2. it lifts your shoulder.

3. it opens up your horse's shoulder so it can step around.

4. opens up your inside seat bone.

You want to always be sure to create an area of no pressure, that is where the horse will go. If ou create an area of pressure, the horse will want to get away form that area. Now it is up to you to recognize where your body creates pressure as you go through exercises in the arena. Your body can create press in the leg, seat bones, and rein. Be sure that you are creating pressure that you WANT to cease in order to ask the horse to do something, not on accident or because of your lack of muscle strength. 

This information was learned and derived from classes taken at the Global Equine Academy

Good riding habits and Training Techniques

Before you get out there and saddle up your horse and take off to the nearest open field and settle into a nice canter so you can feel the wind through your hair, and the sound of hooves hitting the ground in a steady pace that seems to align perfectly with your breathing, and allow that exhilarating feeling of freedom to take over your soul in the way that only your 1,000 pound friend can do, you might want to consider implementing some good practices that will get you and your furry friend off to a great focused start with each ride you go on. There are a few practices that will get your horses mind on you, and take it off of every thing else.

To start, you should do a soundness check. Check for wolf teeth if you haven't done so. Check to see if they are full or gant, and if they have a bright or dull eye to see if they are feeling well.

Next, you can do these quick exercises before you even hop on your horse.

1. Back: Ask the horse to back up for several steps. This will get their attention

2. Disengage hip:bring head towards stirrup to limber the neck and lock the inside leg. apply pressure at the hip until he steps his foot in front of his back foot. If he isn't listening, put some life in your body. Do a few circles to each side.

3. Disengage the Shoulder: come at him at the shoulder, and apply pressure if needed. Add life to your body, lift your arms. Do a few circles on each side.

4. Lower the head: swivel his head down until he responds to the pressure.

5. Bring head to cinch: Bring his head around to his cinch, and ask him to leave it for a second. This makes him focus. If he gives to pressure, that is one thing, but leaving it for a second is them demonstrating focus.

6. Longe them in a few circles on a long rein: You might need something in your other hand. Be sure their head is in the circle toward you. Add life to your body, be active if you want them to be active. When you become inactive, so will the horse.

Ground Limbering exercises:
Tie head to rear D-ring with rein or a bungee. Ask the horse to move around until they start to follow their nose. Be sure to switch sides.

"Bit up the horse" This is a term used when you tie the reins back on the horse, teaching him to give to vertical pressure and break at the poll. For this Exercise, you can run your reins through the D on the cinch, over the saddle and tie them at the seat. This is a little harsh for the mouth, so I prefer to use bungee cords and a tie down or a bucket hanger or something to make it long enough. Run the strap/bungee concoction to the front D ring on the saddle. Be sure they are the same length, and that it brings the horses head perpendicular to the ground. You will want to do this in the round pen so the horse can move out both ways safely. If this is the first time you are doing this, let the horse stand there for a few minutes and get used to the idea. After the horse looks comfortable, ask him to move forward by driving from the hip.

Mounted Collection Exercises:

Once you mount the horse, check your hand and leg positions. Be sure you are level, your foot is level, you are up on your seat bone and then ask for the following:

Bend his head to the cinch for lateral flex, and tip his nose down for some vertical flex.

How to:

Asking for lateral flex: Pull his head toward the cinch, and add a little pressure with the inside leg.

Asking for lateral and vertical flex: pull with your inside hand, and give a little pressure with your inside foot, and use your outside rein, held a little lower to ask him to tuck his nose. If he backs up, that is ok. He will stop eventually. Now try to move the head from side to side keeping the nose tucked. When his head is in the middle, you should have pressure on both reins. Remember pressure and release. If he gives his head, give some back. If you need to, do a back and forth with the reins. If he started backing, give him some pressure with your legs.

Preparing Yourself for Your First Endurance Ride

The last ride I did, I wore a heart-rate monitor to see how many calories I burned during that 25 miles. I burned 1,000 calories on my horse that day. I am in good shape, and that is a very serious workout. To give an example, I burn 1,000 calories by running 10 miles (on my own legs and feet).  So you can see that an endurance ride is not for the weak body.

Preparing your body for the race should include a lot of riding. However, in addition to that, you should stay healthy. Walk, stretch and do physical activity as much as possible. The stronger you are, the better rider you are, especially when you become fatigued, and I guarantee you, that after two hours of trotting and in a saddle, you will become fatigued. Your body and muscles are tired, and  you are only partially finished. Your riding will get sloppy and that will affect your horses ability to perform. Let me put it this way, if you are on you horse bouncing around at  a fast trot, your horses back will become sore, his balance will be off, and you are both at higher risk for injury. So be sure to prepare for this. It isn't called an "endurance" ride because its short and comfy!

Some exercises you can do to increase your strength and flexibility include:

Squats: This will help you to post, rather than three point (standing up, which is bad for the horses back in long distances)

Bicycling: This will also build your quads and help with strength needed to stay put.

Planks: Lay on the ground in push up position, but drop to your elbows. Try to hold it for a minute. If you need to start on your knees and elbows, that is fine, just work up to elbows and toes. Work your core. The stronger your core is, the quicker you can respond to spooks and abrupt movements of your horse that might other wise have put you on the ground. Once you do this in push up position, turn to each side to work your obliques.

Leg Lifts: Lay on the ground (back down), put your hands under your rear, and lift those legs slowly and drop them back down slowly, try to get to 25 of them.

Push-ups: I know that these aren't the most fun, but, if you can do 10 or 20, you can build your back, shoulders and chest muscles, all of these are needed to be a stronger rider.

A good short workout plan including these exercises, and a bit of cardio can really improve your riding and your overall health. We often become so wrapped up in our horses well-being and conditioning, that sometimes we forget our own.

Caring for Your Horse Post Endurance Ride

You just completed your first endurance ride (or you are on your 45 minute stop). Your horse has pulsed down and you completed! Congratulations are in order for you and your horse. You head back to camp to unsaddle, but you have no idea how to care for your horse after putting him or her through their very first horse marathon. You look around and see people with all sorts of rituals that each one of them aware by. You wonder what works, but also realize you may not have the equipment that you need to take care of your race partner. Here are a few pointers that might help alleviate soreness or stiffness in your horse.

- Get a sponge and sponge your horse with cool water on the neck, front legs, and shoulders. DO NOT GET IT BEHIND THE CINCH. Let the rest of your horse cool naturally. Many people keep blankets on their rump to keep them warm in the rear.

-If it is chilly out, put a blanket on your horse, he is sweaty and will be very cold.

- Give him some electrolytes. There are several brands, I prefer the pastes in a tube so I can be sure my girl gets all that she needs.

- Give him some grain, alfalfa, hay, or beet pulp. Let them eat! Again, if it is cold, consider giving him some warm beet pulp soup. Take warm water, and mix it with a scoop of beet pulp. This will rehydrate your horse and warm him up.

- Next you want to cool their legs off to reduce the heat and draw it out of the legs.  Some people put ice boots on the front legs. If you do this, don't leave them on for more than 20-30 minutes. Others prefer gel (Main and Tail Mineral Ice) or clay based poultices that cool the legs, such as a cold clay medicated poultice. You could also quilt wrap, then polo wrap the legs, and leave it on for 24 hours. If you use the poultice, you want it to stay moist as long as possible. Some people layer wet paper under the quilted wrap to assist in keeping it moist.

- Check your horses back for stiffness. Run your fingers down each side of his back, if he flinches, he is stiff or sore, and you might have a saddle fit issue. If that is the case, get some guidance from a professional fitter before your next ride.

- Lastly, don't be surprised if your horse is stiff the next day, or even when you get him home and unload him from the trailer. Just give him some hugs, kisses, rest , lots of hydration, stretching, rubs and treats. You might also consider investing in a horse massage as well. If you are in the Central Texas area, there is a great equine massuese named Donna-Michelle who is very reasonable and might even teach you some techniques.